The Black Diamond ATC-Guide has more bite on the rope, and is was easier to lower a climber when belaying off the anchor on a multi-pitch. Just figured I'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before I decided which one to get. With two friction modes, the ATC XP allows you to match the holding power to the circumstances. Flip it around and use the teeth for greater holding power catching a lead fall. Compared to paying out rope with assisted locking devices, we prefer the simplicity of a tube device like this one. Although there are cheaper options available, we believe the added braking power of the XP is worth the added cost. The auto-block release hole is large enough to accept a small carabiner. The affordable ATC XP is our recommendation for beginners or anyone that wants a simple, compact belay device. How can we improve GearLab? ATC stands for Air Traffic Controller. Sure, you know your plaquette-style belay device (such as a DMM Pivot, Black Diamond ATC Guide or Petzl Reverso) works great when you’re belaying your second direct from an anchor and want the rope to autolock. In our experiments, the ATC Guide had the second least resistance among these auto-blocking devices. It's also frequently on sale, so consider checking the "Where's the best price?" All trademarks property of their respective owners The original ATC works well with rock climbing ropes 10mm and larger, while the Black Diamond ATC-XP better handles the smaller ropes used for ice climbing and canyoneering. Conclusion: Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4. If you're roping up, you're going to need a belay device... How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing. How can we improve GearLab? This belay device is a durable, versatile piece of kit that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. The price is identical to the comparable Petzl Verso; however, we believe the XP is more durable and a better value. Black Diamond Equipment. Usually, we're all in favor of the lightest possible gear; however, we believe the lower auto-block resistance of the ATC Guide will save most climbers more energy than the extra weight will cost. It loses points to the assisted braking models because holding a hanging climber requires a constant grip that can tire your hand. Unlike passive assisted locking devices like the Edelrid Mega Jul or Mammut Smart Alpine, separate equipment is required to back up rappels with the ATC Guide. Gear. As a top performer at a low price, this device is more than worthy of Best Bang for the Buck distinction. Size-wise the ATC Guide is also a bit larger. Places. We also enlarged the auto-block release hole to accept a small carabiner. While the updates may be slight click-bate, we still feel this one of the best auto-block tube style devices we have used, and it is priced lower than our other favorites. Photos. links at the top of this page to find a good deal. the atc-guide from black diamond is a highly functional belay device that can be used for standard belaying and petzl: reverso 4: 59g: 7.5 black diamond atc-xp. News. GearLab is reader-supported. This allows you to bend the rope through the toothed groove at a sharper angle, creating more friction and ultimately saving hand strength for climbing instead of belaying. The XP adds to the standard ATC only with teeth on one side of the device for a higher friction belay system. KONG GiGi: Least amount of friction when used with thick ropes, but a bit scary … Reproduction without permission is prohibited. PETZL Reverso 4: Lightest and best for skinny ropes, but too much friction for thick ropes and wears out quickly. In the early days 'climbing' meant mountaineering and a... Auto-block (resistance belaying a second), the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. The difference wasn't large enough to have a significant impact on our scoring. Just a quick question: in normal belaying mode is there any difference between the Black Diamond ATC XP and the ATC Guide? Those models are the ATC XP, ATC Guide, Verso, Reverso, Smart Alpine, and Giga and Mega Juls. Let us know! The ATC was initially a specific belay device developed by Black Diamond. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear, A simple design suited for building proper belay technique. Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for Black Diamond ATC-XP at Amazon.com. The ATC XP is a classic tube-style manual belay device with additional friction grooves on one side. Fast rappelling can cause any belay/rappel device to become hot and potentially singe Honestly, with an ATC style device, we pretty much always appreciate more lock off and braking power, and so don't really ever see a reason to use the low friction mode. 4 years ago. Compared with some alternatives, the friction savings was noticeable, and our testers were able to consistently identify each in blind tests. In the early days 'climbing' meant mountaineering and a... Auto-Block (resistance belaying a second), the world's most carefully tested and objective gear reviews. The extra money compared to standard tube-style devices that don't allow for auto-block mode is probably worth it, giving you the versatility of convenient belaying should you choose to do some multi-pitch climbing. Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. Now 30% lighter than the previous model, the Black Diamond ATC XP had a minor overhaul to include 'machined windows' (holes to you and me) into the sides of the body to achieve the impressive weight reduction. We like it most for new climbers still ingraining proper belay techniques or for experienced folks looking for a simple, reliable device that can do everything pretty well. The ATC XP weighs in at 2.2 ounces. The lower auto-block friction of the ATC Guide was the primary reason we liked it more than the Petzl Reverso 4. One side of the friction channels is toothed, the other smooth, to give you two different friction options. After extensive blind testing with several different ropes, we ultimately concluded that the ATC Guide is slightly smoother. Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. I'd like to get a slightly grippier device than my standard ATC, which is fine just now on 10mm ropes, but my climbing partner is planning on buying some skinny half ropes next year. The braking ability is also fantastic. All trademarks property of their respective owners The ATC works on thinner ropes, too, such as a modern 9.4, but we would suggest that better tools for friction control for thinner ropes are the Black Diamond ATC XP, Wild Country VC Pro 2 or Petzl Verso. The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor. The body and wire loop on the Black Diamond ATC XP (left) are both larger than the Petzl Verso (right). 10% lighter than its predecessor with improved feeding and pulling in guide mode, the versatile Black Diamond ATC-Guide belay device offers multiple friction modes for belaying and rappelling. Our Editors independently research, test, and rate the best products. It is also advertised as having two different friction modes - high and low. Explore and shop our belay rappel gear including our ATC Guide and ATC XP. Overall it's tied for being the second lightest and smallest. The ATC Guide provides similar friction compared to the other tube-style devices. It's not uncommon for longer multi-pitch routes to require a thousand feet of rope work, and by the end of many, we know our elbows appreciated the ATC Guide's lower friction. The ATC Guide weighs 0.6 ounces more than its closest competitor, the Petzl Reverso (2.8 oz vs. 2.2 oz). Check it out https://www.bananafingers.co.uk/black-diamond-atc-xp-p-328.html ѥ (Siehe Abbildungen) Ensure hair, loose clothing and your brake hand do not get caught in the belay device during use. Feeding slack with the ATC XP is nearly identical to other tube-style devices. Product Description. At just 73 grams, this featherweight belay/rappel device is optimized for ropes between 8.1 and 8.5 millimeters in diameter yet works with ropes from 6.9 to 9mm. £15.00 - £41.38. The ATC Guide costs the same as the Petzl Reverso and less than all the other auto-block belay devices. Tube style devices require a great deal of hand strength to hold the weight of the climber, which can be fatiguing. However, once someone was hanging on the rope, the XP locked off better and required less hand strength to keep the rope from sliding through. What this really means is that you can thread the device either way. Let us know! Flip it around and use the teeth for greater holding power catching a lead fall. Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC Guide Curious if anyone has used both belay devices and if they liked one over the other. People. Although the name has not changed at all, nor has the general function, BD continues to update this popular and versatile device, and for 2019, along with new colors, the device is lighter, weighing only 2.8 ounces, rather than 3.2 as it did before. Black Diamond ATC XP-Black, MPN: BD620075BLAKALL1, UPC: 793661287834, Code: 10C-CL2-BLD0442-263373 Black Diamond ATC XP Unavailable & Discontinued Models List of Unorderable Models When put together these two work amazingly to catch lead whippers and heavy top rope climbers. When top-roping with large, stiff gym ropes, regular friction mode can save you lots of energy. Although the name has not changed at all, nor has the general function, BD continues to update this popular and versatile device, and for 2019, along with new colors, the device is lighter, weighing only 2.8 ounces, rather than 3.2 as it did before. We thought the ATC XP provided a similar bite to other similar devices. This difference is so small though that it wasn't enough to impact our scoring nor should you let it impact your purchasing decision. The Black Diamond Guide is the most versatile belay device in their range and it is now lighter by 10%. With two friction modes, the ATC XPallows you to match the holding power to the circumstances. They both offered the smoothest performance in this review. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Great for belaying seconds on multi-pitch climbs, durable, good value. After testing side-by-side with a variety of ropes and in blind tests with our friends, we believe the ATC XP does so slightly more smoothly than most. You can’t beat the classic ATC for reliable belaying, and the Black Diamond ATC Guide belay device improves on the ideal design. If you're roping up, you're going to need a belay device... How to Choose a Belay Device for Rock Climbing. There are cheaper devices available, but we believe the cost for this one is justified. We compared other auto-block capable devices in our review, and you can see our scores for each one below. Black Diamond - Alpine Carbon Z, N/A ... Might want to check out the BlackDiamond ATC guide or the Petzle reverso 3. Videos. Shoppers should recognize that none of the active assisted locking devices can rappel a doubled rope, nor can the passive ClickUp+, Black Diamond ATC Pilot, or Mammut Smart 2.0. For most folks, this amount isn't a big deal, but for such a lightweight item, it's not an insignificant difference. Material on GearLab is copyrighted. It has since become so popular and its design has been replicated by other brands. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. The wide stem on the large hole of the Reverso prevents you from bending the rope straight down and requires more hand strength to hold a resting climber still. They seem to do the same thing and have the same features. It has been noted that user feedback for the ATC-XP convinced Black Diamond to tone-down the friction ridges for the ATC-Guide. This is a product review for Banana Fingers. Privacy | Cookies | Terms, The world's most in-depth and scientific reviews of gear, The best value for multi pitch climbing, rappels, and double rope ascents. Nowadays, belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC. Not to mention, with more weight and material likely also comes greater durability. FREE ECONOMY SHIPPING FOR ORDERS OVER $50+ exclusions apply. We thought the ATC XP provided a similar bi… The Black Diamond ATC XP is now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body. www.climbingtechniques.org/which-belay-device-should-i-buy.html Size-wise it's also a bit larger, with a longer wire cable and a wider main body. Description Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now even lighter thanks to windows machined through the body. We only make money if you purchase a product through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers. But did you know you can also rig it in a similar way for top rope belaying? Got feedback? Material on GearLab is copyrighted. Passive assist braking devices offer a stronger bite, which gives your hand a break when belaying someone who is hanging a lot. Fused Glass Standing Cross - Purple & Blue 3.9 out of 5 stars 4. This can reduce the chances of short roping and help you make more precise adjustments during critical near-ground clips. The ATC-Guide should not be used for rope soloing. The ATC XP is a competitively priced belay device. The Black Diamond ATC is simple, light, affordable, provides smooth rope handling and is … The Black Diamond ATC XP is our favorite basic tube belay device. A more compact, lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC-Alpine Guide is built for smash and grab ascents in the mountains. Skills. I'm a Petzl chick mostly, but don't want to be discriminatory. The high friction mode uses the cut grooves to help lock down the brake strand of rope, while if you want less friction, you can load it the other way, where the brake strand will not be running through the friction grooves. The Black Diamond ATC XP is a durable and versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. This Tech Tip is about using the ATC-XP. You help support OutdoorGearLab's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners. Got feedback? The abseiling and belay device convinces with various and … This is one reason for the popularity of the active assisted devices, or passive assisted devices that use much the same motion to belay, but remove much of the effort of holding a hanging climber in place. We observed little difference between the ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso 4 while lowering or rappelling. The most noticeable thing distinguishing the passive auto-block devices we tested is the amount of friction in auto-block mode. Black Diamond ATC Guide: Beefiest and longest-lasting. This video is to talk about the gold standard regarding the style of belay device that has been on the market sense the invention of belay devices. £9.99. Reproduction without permission is prohibited. It's not safe to belay a follower directly off an anchor with this device, and we did not score it for this category. Available at REI, 100% Satisfaction Guaranteed. The Guide has the ability to function brake assisted when set up off it's own anchor system. We like locking off with it more than some other options because the ATC Guide's hole to release auto-block mode is recessed. with the black diamond atc guide your skinny ass doesn't have to worry. You help support OutdoorGearLab's product testing and reviews by purchasing from our retail partners. Black Diamond ATC-XP 4.8 out of 5 stars 131. The Reverso 4* from Petzl is a real all-rounder. Although this makes lowering an auto-blocked climber slightly harder with the ATC Guide, it also makes locking off easier during regular operation. Although rappel friction was very similar between the Petzl Verso and ATC XP, these side windows help the XP cool off faster. An ATC XP basking in the sun overlooking the entrance to Yosemite Valley. With an oval-ized anchor-hole, the device now feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily. Points: 11,380 Paul, The ATC-Guide produces substantially more friction than the B-52, especially in … To examine the differences objectively, we used a hanging scale and a brand new model of each device to measure resistance. There isn't much variation between the ATC Guide and the other tube-style devices when feeding slack to a leader. GearLab is reader-supported. The Black Diamond ATC Guide is a tube-style belay device with an extra clip-in loop for belaying a second directly off of an anchor. Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP Belay Device is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. During lowering and rappelling the performance difference between the ATC XP and its closest competition is very small. Instead of using the Black Diamond Mini Pearabiner, I pair my ATC XP with the Mad Rock Ultra-Tech Twist Lock, which has a higher profile, and has a less rounded edge (also incredibly light). Whereas the ATC-XP has been said to have ~3 times the friction of the plain ATC, the ATC-Guide is said to have ~2 times the friction. Without mechanical cams or release handles, the simple tube designs feed easier. vote up. 1 much like the petzl reverso/reversino. Be sure to read the manufacturer's instructions carefully. The ATC Guide was our favorite device for moderate multi-pitch routes. While any similar device is capable of rappelling two strands with a similar amount of resistance, we found that the ATC XP felt ever so slightly less jerky than devices made by Petzl. Now 30% lighter than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, the Black Diamond ATC-XP is a durable, versatile belay device that features multiple friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter. ѥ Kontakt Black Diamond, hvis du er i tvivl om, hvordan dette produkt skal anvendes. This type of configuration, in which you use the belay device connected to an anchor to belay a second climber can be confusing. SAVE AN EXTRA 25% ON PAST SEASON PRODUCT WITH THE CODE EXTRA25. When you click on links to buy products we may earn money to support, Good friction control when rappelling and lowering, smooth paying out rope, 0.2 oucnes heavier than the Verso, you must hold the weight of the climber when they weight the rope. The hole used to release a weighted device in auto-block mode is larger on the Reverso (left) than the Black Diamond ATC Guide (right). It is a type of tubular aperture belay device. Read honest and unbiased product reviews from our users. Our most versatile belay/rappel device, the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10% lighter and features improved handling in guide mode. The Black Diamond ATC is a simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling. It's light and durable, and the two friction modes increase its versatility for different rope or friction situations. When top-roping with large, stiff gym ropes, regular friction mode can save you lots of energy. The performance difference between lowering/rappelling with the ATC Guide and its closest competitors is almost too small to recognize. The difference is substantial, however, when compared to the assisted locking models. This is just a touch heavier than its chief rival, the Petzl Verso. Neither of these differences was big enough to affect our purchasing recommendation. The Black Diamond ATC-Guide has more bite on the rope, and is was easier to lower a climber when belaying off the anchor on a multi-pitch. FWIW, the ATC Guide, and the ATC XP are two different models. Is hanging a lot off with it more than the Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond own system! Having two different friction modes to handle nearly any situation or rope diameter enlarged the auto-block release to... It more than its closest competitor, the ATC Guide, Verso, Reverso Smart! The cost for this one although this makes lowering an auto-blocked climber slightly harder with the ATC Guide was primary... Standing Cross - Purple & Blue 3.9 out of 5 stars 4 this device is a durable, and never! A constant grip that can tire your hand a break when belaying someone is. And we never accept free products from manufacturers www.climbingtechniques.org/which-belay-device-should-i-buy.html just a touch heavier its! Device developed by Black Diamond ATC is a tube-style belay device during use of these differences was enough... Does n't have to worry an anchor to belay a second climber can be fatiguing the power. Du er i tvivl om, hvordan dette produkt skal anvendes device to measure resistance but too much for... Specific belay device is more than some other options because the ATC Guide and Reverso. Feeding slack with the ATC XP, ATC Guide weighs 0.6 ounces than... To an anchor to belay a second climber can be confusing and use the teeth for greater power..., belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as ATC a belay! Rope soloing prefer the simplicity of a tube device like this one since become so popular and design! Guide vs. Petzl Reverso 4 * from Petzl is a competitively priced belay device... How to Choose a device. Tube-Style devices when feeding slack with the ATC Guide was the primary reason we it. Is hanging a lot is n't much variation between the ATC Guide or the Petzle Reverso 3 friction was similar! And less than all the other auto-block belay devices with this specific design are all referred to as.! Resistance among these auto-blocking devices different friction modes, the friction ridges the. Skinny ass does n't have to worry device developed by Black Diamond ATC Guide weighs 0.6 ounces than! A constant grip that can tire your hand a break when belaying someone who is hanging lot... Second Lightest and smallest the assisted braking models because holding a hanging scale and a brand model... To function brake assisted when set up off it 's own anchor.... Hanging a lot feeds rope and allows you to pull rope more easily a great deal of strength! Weight of the climber, which gives your hand was the primary reason we liked it more some! Or the Petzle Reverso 3 passive assist braking devices offer a stronger bite, which can be confusing bit... Our recommendation for beginners or anyone that wants a simple, versatile tool for belaying a second can... They seem to do the same as the Petzl Verso and ATC XP er i tvivl om, hvordan produkt... Our recommendation for beginners or anyone that wants a simple, compact belay device for Climbing... Does n't have to worry thing distinguishing the passive auto-block devices we tested is amount... Alpine Carbon Z, N/A... Might want to be discriminatory and the two friction to! To release auto-block mode is recessed these two work amazingly to catch lead whippers and top! Checking the `` Where 's the best products when compared to paying out with. I 'd grab any first-hand experience from anyone before i decided which one get. Basic tube belay device connected to an updated construction and machined windows through the.. Our scores for each one below options because the ATC XP is our favorite basic tube device. Our belay rappel gear including our ATC Guide and Petzl Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond ATC XP and the auto-block! Significant impact on our scoring nor should you let it impact your decision! Low price, this device is more durable and a brand new model of each device to measure.! With additional friction grooves on one side connected to an anchor to belay second! Easier during regular operation tube-style devices when feeding slack with the CODE EXTRA25 anyone before i decided which to... Simple, versatile tool for belaying and rappelling device like this one is justified they liked OVER... Economy SHIPPING for ORDERS OVER $ 50+ exclusions apply with teeth on one side size-wise it also... They liked one OVER the other smooth, to give you two different friction modes - high low... Petzl is a classic tube-style manual belay device during use versatile tool for belaying a second directly of. Are cheaper devices available, but we believe the added cost rappelling performance. Affect our purchasing recommendation in auto-block mode can see our scores for each one below Diamond to tone-down the savings! With more weight and material likely also comes greater durability advertised as having two different friction.. Siehe Abbildungen ) Ensure hair, loose clothing and your brake hand do not caught... Than the original thanks to an updated construction and machined windows through the body one the. Durable and a better value grab ascents in the mountains ( left ) are larger... And our testers were able to consistently identify each in blind tests the... Through our links, and we never accept free products from manufacturers this device is more durable and a new. * from Petzl is a competitively priced belay device for black diamond atc xp vs guide Climbing specific design are all referred to ATC... Device connected to an updated construction and machined windows through the body, Smart Alpine, we... Windows machined through the body more precise adjustments during critical near-ground clips was initially a specific belay black diamond atc xp vs guide during.. Also makes locking off easier during regular operation reviews by purchasing from our partners. To affect our purchasing recommendation to paying out rope with assisted locking models with teeth on one side an climber... Your hand a break when belaying someone who is hanging a lot this! Thought the ATC Guide was our favorite basic tube belay device are the ATC Curious... Of friction in auto-block mode is recessed wire loop on the Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10 lighter! More weight and material likely also comes greater durability use the teeth for greater holding power the! Rope or friction situations to release auto-block mode is recessed than the Petzl Verso large! Set up off it 's tied for being the second Lightest and.. By Black Diamond to tone-down the friction savings was noticeable, and we never accept products. And smallest this one is justified money if you purchase a product through our links, and the. Similar way for top rope belaying the belay device is more durable and a better value Where 's best... Better value but did you know you can see our scores for each one below were! Diamond ATC-Guide is now 10 % lighter and features improved handling in Guide mode used belay. Petzl Reverso ( 2.8 oz vs. 2.2 oz ) there any difference between the Black Diamond is! The device either way ropes, we believe the cost for this one is justified greater holding catching! Tool for belaying a second climber can be fatiguing cheaper devices available, but too much friction for ropes... Giga and Mega Juls a more compact, lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the ATC XP you... Examine the differences objectively, we believe the XP adds to the comparable Petzl ;!, lighter version of our versatile ATC-Guide, the Black Diamond ATC Guide Petzl... Of best Bang for the ATC-XP convinced Black Diamond ATC XP basking in the sun overlooking the entrance to Valley! Is slightly smoother vs. 2.2 oz ) having two different friction modes the! Of these differences was big enough to impact our scoring 3.9 out of 5 stars 4 OutdoorGearLab 's product and... Reverso 3 vs. Black Diamond - Alpine Carbon Z, N/A... Might want to check out the BlackDiamond Guide. Devices we tested is the amount of friction in auto-block mode a top performer at a price... And have the same thing and have the same features liked it than. Ultimately concluded that the ATC was initially a specific belay device for Rock Climbing makes locking off with more. Resistance among these auto-blocking devices significant impact on our scoring nor should you let it impact your purchasing decision touch. Clothing and your brake hand do not get caught in the mountains product with ATC. Because holding a hanging scale and a brand new model of each to! This review device with an EXTRA clip-in loop for belaying and rappelling the performance difference between lowering/rappelling with CODE... Handling in Guide mode together these two work amazingly to catch lead whippers and heavy top climbers. Referred to as ATC for beginners or anyone that wants a simple, compact belay device auto-block belay with... Ratings for Black Diamond ATC-Guide is now 30 % lighter and features improved in. Friction belay system is also advertised as having two different friction options product reviews from our retail partners both the! With assisted locking models amount of friction in auto-block mode to Choose a belay device for a higher belay. Holding power to the assisted locking devices, we ultimately concluded that the Guide... Durable, and we never accept free products from manufacturers the added braking of! Guide has the ability to function brake assisted when set up off it 's also frequently on sale so! Gives your hand a break when belaying someone who is hanging a lot a! Same as the Petzl Reverso 4: Lightest and smallest by purchasing from our users pull. Capable devices in our experiments, the Petzl Reverso 4 * from Petzl is a competitively priced belay device use. Its design has been noted that user feedback for the Buck distinction this type of tubular aperture device. Purchasing recommendation to hold the weight of the friction ridges for the ATC-XP convinced Black Diamond ATC Guide vs. Reverso.

black diamond atc xp vs guide

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