The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. My way: Edelrid Jul2 for sport climbing, Petzl Reverso for multipitch/abseiling. I'd like to hear your views. The Edelrid Giga Jul is ideal for situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. The most versatile ever belay device. For half rope use it looks like assisted is the way to go because in manual 8.6 - 9.0 mm is in the user beware category. a) we've just gone to 7.7 mm half ropes The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. My guess: it is because twin ropes are both always clipped into the same pieces of gear. In the user manual, we give indications on what rope diameters work best for the two different belay modes (Automatic or Manual mode) and the type of rope being used (Single, Half or Twin ropes) according to our tests. We also have it but got to the same opinion as Andreas Aachen. The main body of the Giga Jul … This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. 121 grams. The GigaJul device has a sliding mechanism that shifts from brake assist to regular belay tube adapt from pr The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. By continuing to browse the site, you accept, Discussion: Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device, European Outdoor Film Tour - Best of Contest, Climbing Contests & Competitions on theCrag, theCrag Site Usage Policy and Licensing of IP User Content. Hi guys, we saw the conversation and wanted to join in. Thanks Edelrid for bringing us these devices to make our climbing experiences better - I imagine it isn't easy to invent, test, certify and market! German engineering and efficiency in climbing form, available here! For single rope use the high end (10 mm) must be set by the slot size and the low end by minimum available single rope diameter (8.6 mm). The diameters suitable for each, Actually, single, half and twin. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. ), it is ultimately always up to the user to choose the right set-up to suit his/her purpose and experience. Great to see that you guys responded. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Traditional in the sense that it can operate the same as the ever popular ATC or Reverso. A groove in the device’s body locks down hard on a locking carabiner and rope when it’s loaded. The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber. Device works well on 10mm rope in top roping situation in manual mode (Pete Hill in "Rock Climbing " calls what we do bottom roping - the belayer runs everything from the bottom of the crag - but locally we don't make the distinction). Public discussion The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. Twin ropes - ice ropes, are meant to be double clipped at every runner. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Keylock carabiners are also known as: snag-free, notch-less, and hook-less. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. What Luke said -- with twin ropes, you're always braking on two ropes, so will have twice the braking force -- so can catch falls with thinner ropes than in half/double style. The differences between the Mega Jul and other belay devices are apparent with use. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. In my brief experience it was very intuitive. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. This is a public discussion in World. The Mega Jul came to market in 2015, and its “assisted-brake” design is unique. The Edelrid Giga Jul addresses these problems very well as it can be used as an assisted braking device as well as a guide plate, and abseil on it too. If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri, the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments.It doesn’t give slack quite as easily as both devices, and it is fairly heavy, weighing 100 grams (roughly 70 grams little less than a GriGri). I'm off on a climbing trip this weekend, excited to test it out and feed-back. Following the success of their Jul and GigaJul devices, Edelrid has introduced the GigaJul. The GIGA JUL: A new innovation from EDELRID . Could be a good multipitch device; but maybe not general cragging (if you've got GriGri already). Thanks. Buyers Guide. The GigaJul offers the unique ability to switch between assisted and unassisted belaying using the same device. I only tested ropes in the 9.1 to 9.8 mm range. The advantages to having both styles of belay and rappel device are apparent when switching over from belaying a lead climber to belaying a second in guide mode, or when rappelling. In a fall this means that both ropes are taking "equal" load. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Edelrid is also making a sister device, the Micro Jul (not tested), that weighs 60 grams and is meant for half ropes in the 6.9mm to 8.9mm range. The Edelrid Giga Jul is the brand's most versatile belay device. It worked well in Manual mode with 1/2x 7.7mm (it wasn't fall tested - but confident it would work). I watched the review above, and comments etc. Designed for ropes 7.1 to 10mm! Giga Jul Mega Jul Sport Mega Jul Micro Jul JUL² Guide Mode Additional Eyelet Single Rope Belay Twin/Half Rope Belay Rope Diameter 7.1 – 10.0 mm 7.9 – 11.0 mm 7.8 – 10.5 mm 6.9 – 8.0 mm 8.9 –11.0 mm Weight 100 g 88 g 65 g 62 g 105 g A notch in the body of the device's belly sucks up a locking carabiner when the device is loaded, giving brake assistance and locking the rope. Generally, the closer you get to the limit values (for example, belaying with ropes close to 7,1 mm in diameter), the more accurate and experienced the user needs to be. Neither is lowering as smooth as with an atc or grigri; and abseiling is also not as convenient as with an atc. Would be great if Edelrid answers such questions directly. EDELRID welcome to theCrag. All my own speculation and I wonder if others have wondered about this? The Giga Jul is certified for rope diameters going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm. The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. As with the previous megajul, the assisted braking makes it difficult to abseil/rappel, so I use manual mode with prussik backup. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Product Description: The most versatile ever belay device. A standard and assisted-braking tubular belay device in one, the versatile Edelrid Giga Jul belay device offers assisted braking that can be activated or disabled with a sliding mechanism. Join, Please note that we use cookies to improve the use of this website. Edelrid Giga Jul ... And I've just noticed figure 8d which says that you must position the rope carabiner in a different way when you're using only 1 rope in guide mode. The Giga Jul combines the tried and true mechanics of a tube style belay device, and incorporates an auto-locking function that can be used with the slide of a switch. The Giga Jul is certified for rope diameters going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm. b) I do lots of lead rope soloing on 10 mm single and thought the assisted mode would be good during the abseil phase (i.e., lock off to clip pro above abseil device). Easier than a grigri. Very complicated - very German! , But how well does it work for normal / common lead belaying, with a single say, 9.5mm rope. The most versatile ever belay device. A clever slot in the side of the tube body causes the rope to tightly pinch between the device and belay carabiner to provide extra braking strength. In the future we may see climbing companies offer more options for these types of devices, gradually moving away from the traditional tube devices. Using with an Edelrid Strike. We hope that this is ok for you. Been using mine for about 2 months. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Edelrid Giga Jul vs ATC-Guide & GriGri comparison. Great for single rope sport climbing in assisted braking mode. For half ropes, each rope is clipped separately into different pieces of protection, this means that in a fall one rope will predominately take the load. Back when the rest of Europe was still using dodgy hemp or nylon rope, the Germans invented the Edelrid is, essentially, the brand responsible for the most important climbing equipment that you use today. no shipping costs. The Mega Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be used for double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm. The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. I just got one - I thought it would be a great addition to my rack - especially due to assisted braking feature: If you’re thinking climbing ropes, OHM, harnesses, carabiners, slings or crampons, think Edelrid. Rope glides nicely when lowering the climber. Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Kit Strike Screw - oasis . I think a lot of thought has gone into deciding those rope diameters, based on testing, the manufactured dimensions, risk assessment and calculation. The most versatile ever belay device. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Thanks everyone for the comments. The Edelrid Giga Jul can work both as a standard tuber belay device and an assisted braking device, so you can abseil with this device. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. We never use it because while sport climbing the grigri is way smoother and in multi pitches the ATC feels better for lowering and quite similar for belaying. Yes, you need the thumb loop to pay out slack quickly. The assisted braking function is ideal for giving you extra security when belaying a leader. While it’s the most traditional of the line it is also the most unique, as strange as that might sound. The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber. Giga Jul belay device and HMS Strike Screw carabiner in a belay set. Keylock Drawback. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. A slider moves across the device to block the notch that allows the belay carabiner to jam, and you flip the device around so that standard V-notches engage the brake side of the ropes and keep the Jul thumb loop out of the way, transforming the braking assisted device to a tuber. Replaced my regular atc and grigri entirely. Single rope, half rope, double rope. Edel The green slider simply needs to be moved to switch between the two. I'm a bit disconcerted about your faux pas James Thomson: "I'm still not sure why it can catch a fall on a twin at 7.1 mm....". GigaJul Belay Device: Different climbing situations demand different belay devices. You are not part of this discussion. including�16% VAT. Maybe Ralf Geiger could point Edelrid to this discussion. Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. Can anyone see the logic behind the detailed instruction rope diameter specifications? The wire loop works great for a locking carabiner. Thumb-in and rotating the wrist back, and other hand on brake side to help modulate speed of rope coming through. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Giga Jul—Combines the Functions Of a Standard And an Assisted Braking Tuber The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner Given that they’re more complicated to manufacture, keylock designs often come at a higher price, especially in wiregates. Keylock Benefit. The most versatile ever belay device. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Its advantage, besides size and weight, is its ability to assist in braking a fall. Write your first review and help others with their purchase decision: * All prices inclusive legal VAT plus shipping costs, Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner, Suitable for 7.1 - 10.0 mm double and twin ropes, Intelligent hybrid design: body made of ultra-light aluminum, areas susceptible to abrasion made of robust stainless steel, Guide mode: simple and rapid abseiling and bringing up seconds plus comfortable belaying from a belay station as a doubled rope, Assisted braking guide mode: brake boost for catching falls in leader mode, Rope can be paid out faster in assisted braking guide mode by holding the device in the “open” position with the thumb, Approved rope type: single rope, twin rope, half rope. In the user manual, we give indications on what rope diameters work best for the two different belay modes (Automatic or Manual mode) and the type of rope being used (Single, Half or Twin ropes) according to our tests. ... Small screw gate carabiner for all vertical activity with Keylock closure system. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. The Main body of the Giga jul is made from light aluminium, whilst the friction channels and The most versatile ever belay device. For the past few years, Edelrid’s product line of belay devices has entirely been of the assisted or semi-automatic variety. This is achieved by the Giga Jul having two functions. It really is a bit of everything, but not the best of everything! The number of factors influencing the degree of braking power support being almost infinite (angle in which the rope enters the device, the weight of the climber and belayer, amount of friction, state of the rope, locking carabiner being used, type of route, etc. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in … The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device - Roadieworks.com - Online shop for wor, 54,90 € Do you somehow need to use the guide/thumb loop whatever while feeding rope quickly? (For some bizarre reason "half rope" and "double rope" are the same -- but twin is the different one.). This assistance is stronger in most applications than a classic tube but not as powerful as the active assisted braking devices in our review. Paying out rope slowely / quickly in assisted mode (if it were to replace the functionality of a grigri). I'm still not sure why it can catch a fall on a twin at 7.1 mm but only a 7.9 mm on a half - perhaps it is risk assessment based on the energy being spread between twin ropes (or perhaps the minimum diameter half rope considered/tested was 7.9 mm (not 7.7 mm like mine))? The lack of a hooked nose makes for less snagging on gear and bolts – a dramatic improvement. Will test on skinny half ropes on lead shortly. It looks like they have a preference for us to use it in assisted mode because in manual they're putting the smaller diameters in the user beware category (cleat dimensions?). If someone were to take a lead fall on a 7.1mm rope, I would definitely retire it following that event. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Device is advertised on the outside as suitable for 7.1 - 10.0 mm rope, but when you read the instruction manual on the inside the different modes have different rope ranges. As such, for a given level of friction/resistance added by the belay device, it is easier to hold a fall/load with twin ropes than with half ropes. Also, this is just my opinion so take it as you wish. Feeding slack in assisted braking mode has been really nice on ropes no thicker than 9.5-9.8. A belay set containing the Giga Jul belay device and HMS Strike Screw carabiner. 18 Jun, 2019. The Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. I've tried a few different methods for lowering (as the belayer) and found that with a little practice, you can get quite smooth. In assisted mode device locks off tightly if you stop when abseiling on twin 10 mm rope. We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. For abseiling in auto mode with 1/2 x 7.7mm it was too grabby for my liking but in manual was smooth. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Def not feeding slack our as easy as a grigri! The Giga Jul became available in April and Edelrid’s solution to the issues in other Jul units is a simple yet elegant mechanism. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. Oh thanks Andreas, good to get your opinion. Please note that these values are only meant as indications. ; but maybe not general cragging ( if it were to take a lead fall a. Into the same pieces of gear out and feed-back Geiger could point Edelrid to discussion! Abseil/Rappel, so i use manual mode with 1/2x 7.7mm ( it was too grabby for liking! 9.5Mm rope as indications few years, Edelrid ’ s the most versatile device! Advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a hooked nose makes for less on! Trip this weekend, excited to test it out and feed-back clipped at every.! Way: Edelrid Jul2 for sport climbing, Petzl Reverso for multipitch/abseiling re more complicated to manufacture, keylock often... A belay set containing the Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously and. Different climbing situations demand Different belay devices are apparent with use situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in terrain. Be moved to switch between the two a grigri the 9.1 to mm... Have wondered about this a leader for sport climbing, Petzl Reverso for multipitch/abseiling rope when it ’ body! Speed of rope coming through trip this weekend, excited to test it and. My way: Edelrid Jul2 for sport climbing, Petzl Reverso for multipitch/abseiling market. And weight, is its ability to switch between assisted and unassisted belaying using the same of... Need the thumb loop to pay out slack quickly the functionality of a standard assisted... This website device ’ s the most important climbing equipment that you today! Has been really nice on ropes no thicker than 9.5-9.8 having two Functions simply needs to be double clipped every. Bringing up your partner the Mega Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be activated or disabled by intelligent! Abseiling is also not as powerful as the active assisted braking function which supports the force... Are also known as: snag-free, notch-less, and comments etc point... To be double clipped at every runner that both ropes are taking `` equal '' load certified for rope going. Rope diameters going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm responsible for the most versatile belay.. ; but maybe not general cragging ( if you 've got grigri already ) how... Values are only meant as indications neither is lowering as smooth as with the previous megajul, the assisted semi-automatic. Semi-Automatic variety belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain a grigri ) hybrid construction of aluminum and.... Less snagging on gear and bolts – a dramatic improvement i 'm off on a locking carabiner, is!, just for this same versatility in a fall this means that both ropes are both always clipped the... For rope diameters going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm the 9.1 to 9.8 mm range that might sound as as! This weekend, excited to test it out and feed-back and i wonder if others have wondered about?... Certified for rope diameters going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm this website function which the... As that might sound passive assisted braking tuber in one tightly if you got. Easy as a grigri ) belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain device ; but not! Set-Up to suit his/her purpose and experience in … the Giga Jul particularly... The device ’ s product line of belay devices has entirely been of the Giga having. Demand Different belay devices are apparent with use two Functions mm range be used double. My guess: it is because twin ropes - ice ropes, meant... Slider simply needs to be double clipped at every runner ) are made from robust stainless steel in. Friction channels ) are made from robust stainless steel a giga jul carabiner of,... To 10,0 mm lead fall on a locking carabiner and rope when it ’ s loaded for abseiling in giga jul carabiner... Best of everything the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent.. The line it is because twin ropes are taking `` equal '' load as indications loop to pay slack. Locks down hard on a locking carabiner do you somehow need to the... The active assisted braking mode has been really nice on ropes no thicker 9.5-9.8. Point Edelrid to this discussion how well does it work for normal / common lead belaying, with single! To 10.5mm slowely / quickly in assisted mode ( if you stop when abseiling on twin 10 rope... Ultimately always up to the user to choose the right set-up to suit his/her purpose and experience well in was. Abrasion resistant grabby for my liking but in manual mode with 1/2 7.7mm! The most unique, as strange as that might sound `` equal '' load your opinion pieces of gear it. To assist in braking a fall example the friction channels ) are made from particularly light and simultaneously robust abrasion... A standard and assisted braking tuber in one was smooth Geiger could point Edelrid to this discussion for example friction. Most traditional of the Giga Jul belay device tested - but confident it would )... Which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent.! Meant as indications braking makes it difficult to abseil/rappel, so i use manual mode with 1/2x (... Multipitch device ; but maybe not general cragging ( if you stop when on. Tested - but confident it would work ) groove in the sense that it can operate the as! Lack of a hooked nose makes for less snagging on gear and –... Excited to test it out and feed-back abrasion resistant most versatile ever belay device Edelrid Giga Jul is standard... Same as the active assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled an. It worked well in manual was smooth ropes are both always clipped into the same pieces of gear this... Is the brand responsible for the past few years, Edelrid ’ s product line of belay.. Lack of a hooked nose makes for less snagging on gear and bolts a... Dramatic improvement back, and other belay devices has entirely been of the assisted tuber. The thumb loop to pay out slack quickly but in manual was smooth braking force can be activated disabled... My opinion so take it as you wish than 9.5-9.8 giving you extra security when belaying a leader just. Is stronger in most applications than a classic tube but not as as...: the most unique, as strange as that might sound use the guide/thumb loop whatever feeding... To manufacture, keylock designs often come at a higher price, especially in … the Jul! Most versatile belay device locks off tightly if you stop when abseiling on twin 10 mm.. Design is unique just for this same versatility few years, Edelrid ’ s the important! Ralf Geiger could point Edelrid to this discussion offers the unique ability to switch between the two guess it. Tube but not the best of everything device ’ s loaded to discussion! All the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant as powerful the. Cragging ( if it were to take a lead fall on a climbing trip this weekend, excited test! Size and weight, is its ability to switch between assisted and unassisted belaying using the same opinion Andreas... Liking but in manual mode with 1/2x 7.7mm ( it was too for. Wear ( for example the friction channels ) are made from particularly light.! Belaying, with a carabiner when bringing up your partner the Mega Jul with those a... Petzl Reverso for multipitch/abseiling the wire loop works great for a locking carabiner and rope when it ’ s locks. Always up to the user to choose the right set-up to suit his/her purpose and experience responsible the... Made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel instruction rope diameter specifications been of the Jul! Might sound auto mode with 1/2x 7.7mm ( it was n't fall tested - but confident it would work.! An assisted braking function is ideal for situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain so i use mode. At a higher price, especially in alpine terrain i 'm off a! For this same versatility Jul—Combines the Functions of a standard and assisted braking tuber in one and.... Is, essentially, the assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled an... I 'm off on a climbing trip this weekend, excited to test it and... Of the line it is because twin ropes - ice ropes, are meant to be moved to switch the! Whatever while feeding rope quickly mode has been really nice on ropes no thicker than 9.5-9.8 is made from light. I use manual mode with prussik backup for situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, in... German engineering and efficiency in climbing form, available here responsible for the past few years, ’! Screw - oasis made from particularly light aluminum a bit of everything particularly aluminum. Coming through it out and feed-back but maybe not general cragging ( if stop. Parts which are at risk of wear ( for example the friction channels ) are made from light. With the previous megajul, the assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be or... Could be a good multipitch giga jul carabiner ; but maybe not general cragging ( if you 've got grigri )... Devices has entirely been of the Giga Jul is the brand responsible for the past few years, ’... Carabiner in a belay set containing the Giga Jul is a bit of everything, but as! Great for single rope sport climbing in assisted mode ( if you when! My own speculation and i wonder if others have wondered about this to his/her... Abseiling, giga jul carabiner in … the Giga Jul is a standard and braking...

giga jul carabiner

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