The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. For single rope use the high end (10 mm) must be set by the slot size and the low end by minimum available single rope diameter (8.6 mm). The green slider simply needs to be moved to switch between the two. including�16% VAT. A notch in the body of the device's belly sucks up a locking carabiner when the device is loaded, giving brake assistance and locking the rope. Using with an Edelrid Strike. The Giga Jul from Edelrid is the newest addition to their growing line of Jul belay devices. A belay set containing the Giga Jul belay device and HMS Strike Screw carabiner. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. If you’re thinking climbing ropes, OHM, harnesses, carabiners, slings or crampons, think Edelrid. Thanks Edelrid for bringing us these devices to make our climbing experiences better - I imagine it isn't easy to invent, test, certify and market! Being able to rappel double ropes and belay in auto-block mode is a necessity for any multi-pitch belay device, but also adding in assisted braking greatly increases its value. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. I'm off on a climbing trip this weekend, excited to test it out and feed-back. I only tested ropes in the 9.1 to 9.8 mm range. For half ropes, each rope is clipped separately into different pieces of protection, this means that in a fall one rope will predominately take the load. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. I'd like to hear your views. By continuing to browse the site, you accept, Discussion: Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device, European Outdoor Film Tour - Best of Contest, Climbing Contests & Competitions on theCrag, theCrag Site Usage Policy and Licensing of IP User Content. Yes, you need the thumb loop to pay out slack quickly. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in … Feeding slack in assisted braking mode has been really nice on ropes no thicker than 9.5-9.8. Could be a good multipitch device; but maybe not general cragging (if you've got GriGri already). Following the success of their Jul and GigaJul devices, Edelrid has introduced the GigaJul. A groove in the device’s body locks down hard on a locking carabiner and rope when it’s loaded. Buyers Guide. The most versatile ever belay device. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Device works well on 10mm rope in top roping situation in manual mode (Pete Hill in "Rock Climbing " calls what we do bottom roping - the belayer runs everything from the bottom of the crag - but locally we don't make the distinction). Twin ropes - ice ropes, are meant to be double clipped at every runner. My way: Edelrid Jul2 for sport climbing, Petzl Reverso for multipitch/abseiling. The Giga Jul is certified for rope diameters going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm. a) we've just gone to 7.7 mm half ropes Single rope, half rope, double rope. The Mega Jul weighs just 65 grams and can be used for double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm. The most versatile ever belay device. While it’s the most traditional of the line it is also the most unique, as strange as that might sound. Traditional in the sense that it can operate the same as the ever popular ATC or Reverso. Will test on skinny half ropes on lead shortly. This assistance is stronger in most applications than a classic tube but not as powerful as the active assisted braking devices in our review. The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. Easier than a grigri. Thumb-in and rotating the wrist back, and other hand on brake side to help modulate speed of rope coming through. no shipping costs. The lack of a hooked nose makes for less snagging on gear and bolts – a dramatic improvement. The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber. 18 Jun, 2019. The Mega Jul came to market in 2015, and its “assisted-brake” design is unique. For half rope use it looks like assisted is the way to go because in manual 8.6 - 9.0 mm is in the user beware category. This is achieved by the Giga Jul having two functions. EDELRID welcome to theCrag. For the past few years, Edelrid’s product line of belay devices has entirely been of the assisted or semi-automatic variety. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. The Edelrid Giga Jul can work both as a standard tuber belay device and an assisted braking device, so you can abseil with this device. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. In my brief experience it was very intuitive. The main body of the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum. You are not part of this discussion. The main body of the Giga Jul … The Giga Jul combines all the advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard tuber. I'm a bit disconcerted about your faux pas James Thomson: "I'm still not sure why it can catch a fall on a twin at 7.1 mm....". In assisted mode device locks off tightly if you stop when abseiling on twin 10 mm rope. (For some bizarre reason "half rope" and "double rope" are the same -- but twin is the different one.). The most versatile ever belay device. Been using mine for about 2 months. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Device - Roadieworks.com - Online shop for wor, 54,90 € The Giga Jul combines the tried and true mechanics of a tube style belay device, and incorporates an auto-locking function that can be used with the slide of a switch. Thanks everyone for the comments. The GigaJul device has a sliding mechanism that shifts from brake assist to regular belay tube adapt from pr The Mega Jul is a passive assisted braking device. The Edelrid Giga Jul is a true "all in one" belay device. Giga Jul—Combines the Functions Of a Standard And an Assisted Braking Tuber The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. ... Small screw gate carabiner for all vertical activity with Keylock closure system. Keylock Drawback. Edelrid Giga Jul Belay Kit Strike Screw - oasis . A standard and assisted-braking tubular belay device in one, the versatile Edelrid Giga Jul belay device offers assisted braking that can be activated or disabled with a sliding mechanism. Neither is lowering as smooth as with an atc or grigri; and abseiling is also not as convenient as with an atc. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. If compared directly to an ATC-Guide or a GriGri, the Giga Jul falls a little short in both departments.It doesn’t give slack quite as easily as both devices, and it is fairly heavy, weighing 100 grams (roughly 70 grams little less than a GriGri). What Luke said -- with twin ropes, you're always braking on two ropes, so will have twice the braking force -- so can catch falls with thinner ropes than in half/double style. We never use it because while sport climbing the grigri is way smoother and in multi pitches the ATC feels better for lowering and quite similar for belaying. The advantages to having both styles of belay and rappel device are apparent when switching over from belaying a lead climber to belaying a second in guide mode, or when rappelling. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Designed for ropes 7.1 to 10mm! We also have it but got to the same opinion as Andreas Aachen. Parts which are at risk of wear (for example the friction channels) are made from robust stainless steel. Thanks. It looks like they have a preference for us to use it in assisted mode because in manual they're putting the smaller diameters in the user beware category (cleat dimensions?). For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. The Edelrid Giga Jul addresses these problems very well as it can be used as an assisted braking device as well as a guide plate, and abseil on it too. The GIGA JUL: A new innovation from EDELRID . The GigaJul offers the unique ability to switch between assisted and unassisted belaying using the same device. Def not feeding slack our as easy as a grigri! The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. The wire loop works great for a locking carabiner. Hi guys, we saw the conversation and wanted to join in. The most versatile ever belay device. The Giga Jul is certified for rope diameters going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm. Paying out rope slowely / quickly in assisted mode (if it were to replace the functionality of a grigri). Edelrid Giga Jul vs ATC-Guide & GriGri comparison. A clever slot in the side of the tube body causes the rope to tightly pinch between the device and belay carabiner to provide extra braking strength. GigaJul Belay Device: Different climbing situations demand different belay devices. I watched the review above, and comments etc. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Maybe Ralf Geiger could point Edelrid to this discussion. I've tried a few different methods for lowering (as the belayer) and found that with a little practice, you can get quite smooth. I think a lot of thought has gone into deciding those rope diameters, based on testing, the manufactured dimensions, risk assessment and calculation. As with the previous megajul, the assisted braking makes it difficult to abseil/rappel, so I use manual mode with prussik backup. Product Description: The most versatile ever belay device. The Main body of the Giga jul is made from light aluminium, whilst the friction channels and Very complicated - very German! All my own speculation and I wonder if others have wondered about this? Its advantage, besides size and weight, is its ability to assist in braking a fall. In the user manual, we give indications on what rope diameters work best for the two different belay modes (Automatic or Manual mode) and the type of rope being used (Single, Half or Twin ropes) according to our tests. It really is a bit of everything, but not the best of everything! Edelrid is also making a sister device, the Micro Jul (not tested), that weighs 60 grams and is meant for half ropes in the 6.9mm to 8.9mm range. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. The diameters suitable for each, Actually, single, half and twin. As such, for a given level of friction/resistance added by the belay device, it is easier to hold a fall/load with twin ropes than with half ropes. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. Edel 121 grams. In the user manual, we give indications on what rope diameters work best for the two different belay modes (Automatic or Manual mode) and the type of rope being used (Single, Half or Twin ropes) according to our tests. Would be great if Edelrid answers such questions directly. The most versatile ever belay device. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. Oh thanks Andreas, good to get your opinion. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. Write your first review and help others with their purchase decision: * All prices inclusive legal VAT plus shipping costs, Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner, Suitable for 7.1 - 10.0 mm double and twin ropes, Intelligent hybrid design: body made of ultra-light aluminum, areas susceptible to abrasion made of robust stainless steel, Guide mode: simple and rapid abseiling and bringing up seconds plus comfortable belaying from a belay station as a doubled rope, Assisted braking guide mode: brake boost for catching falls in leader mode, Rope can be paid out faster in assisted braking guide mode by holding the device in the “open” position with the thumb, Approved rope type: single rope, twin rope, half rope. Generally, the closer you get to the limit values (for example, belaying with ropes close to 7,1 mm in diameter), the more accurate and experienced the user needs to be. Join, Please note that we use cookies to improve the use of this website. Device is advertised on the outside as suitable for 7.1 - 10.0 mm rope, but when you read the instruction manual on the inside the different modes have different rope ranges. We hope that this is ok for you. Small eyelet for releasing unit with a carabiner when bringing up your partner ), it is ultimately always up to the user to choose the right set-up to suit his/her purpose and experience. If someone were to take a lead fall on a 7.1mm rope, I would definitely retire it following that event. The Edelrid Giga Jul is the brand's most versatile belay device. Please note that these values are only meant as indications. Edelrid is, essentially, the brand responsible for the most important climbing equipment that you use today. Public discussion Keylock carabiners are also known as: snag-free, notch-less, and hook-less. The Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant. German engineering and efficiency in climbing form, available here! The Giga Jul became available in April and Edelrid’s solution to the issues in other Jul units is a simple yet elegant mechanism. A slider moves across the device to block the notch that allows the belay carabiner to jam, and you flip the device around so that standard V-notches engage the brake side of the ropes and keep the Jul thumb loop out of the way, transforming the braking assisted device to a tuber. The Giga Jul is a standard and assisted braking tuber in one. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. Rope glides nicely when lowering the climber. I'm still not sure why it can catch a fall on a twin at 7.1 mm but only a 7.9 mm on a half - perhaps it is risk assessment based on the energy being spread between twin ropes (or perhaps the minimum diameter half rope considered/tested was 7.9 mm (not 7.7 mm like mine))? Great to see that you guys responded. Given that they’re more complicated to manufacture, keylock designs often come at a higher price, especially in wiregates. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. This is made possible by a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel. We know many people who commonly carry a tube and a GriGri up multi-pitch climbs, just for this same versatility. I just got one - I thought it would be a great addition to my rack - especially due to assisted braking feature: Giga Jul Mega Jul Sport Mega Jul Micro Jul JUL² Guide Mode Additional Eyelet Single Rope Belay Twin/Half Rope Belay Rope Diameter 7.1 – 10.0 mm 7.9 – 11.0 mm 7.8 – 10.5 mm 6.9 – 8.0 mm 8.9 –11.0 mm Weight 100 g 88 g 65 g 62 g 105 g The number of factors influencing the degree of braking power support being almost infinite (angle in which the rope enters the device, the weight of the climber and belayer, amount of friction, state of the rope, locking carabiner being used, type of route, etc. The Edelrid Giga Jul is ideal for situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. For situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain. , It worked well in Manual mode with 1/2x 7.7mm (it wasn't fall tested - but confident it would work). But how well does it work for normal / common lead belaying, with a single say, 9.5mm rope. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. Giga Jul belay device and HMS Strike Screw carabiner in a belay set. The assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism. My guess: it is because twin ropes are both always clipped into the same pieces of gear. The differences between the Mega Jul and other belay devices are apparent with use. This is a public discussion in World. Edelrid Giga Jul ... And I've just noticed figure 8d which says that you must position the rope carabiner in a different way when you're using only 1 rope in guide mode. In a fall this means that both ropes are taking "equal" load. b) I do lots of lead rope soloing on 10 mm single and thought the assisted mode would be good during the abseil phase (i.e., lock off to clip pro above abseil device). Great for single rope sport climbing in assisted braking mode. Can anyone see the logic behind the detailed instruction rope diameter specifications? Also, this is just my opinion so take it as you wish. For abseiling in auto mode with 1/2 x 7.7mm it was too grabby for my liking but in manual was smooth. Do you somehow need to use the guide/thumb loop whatever while feeding rope quickly? Keylock Benefit. Replaced my regular atc and grigri entirely. Back when the rest of Europe was still using dodgy hemp or nylon rope, the Germans invented the In the future we may see climbing companies offer more options for these types of devices, gradually moving away from the traditional tube devices. The assisted braking function is ideal for giving you extra security when belaying a leader. It would work ) belay Kit Strike Screw - oasis needs to be moved to between... Different climbing situations demand Different belay devices are apparent with use it following that.... I wonder if others have wondered about this when it ’ s product line of belay devices has been! Stop when abseiling on giga jul carabiner 10 mm rope on a 7.1mm rope, i would retire... Every runner 'm off on a climbing trip this weekend, excited to test it and... N'T fall tested - but confident it would work ) in … the Giga Jul is a public this... Unique, as strange as that might sound auto mode with 1/2x 7.7mm ( it was grabby... Mode device locks off tightly if you stop when abseiling on twin 10 mm rope two Functions to assist braking... Belay device: Different climbing situations demand Different belay devices it were to take a fall. Be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism when it ’ s giga jul carabiner locks down hard on a carabiner... Strange as that might sound when belaying a leader test it out and feed-back and... Would work ) can anyone see the logic behind the detailed instruction rope diameter specifications in... 10 mm rope most important climbing equipment that you use today for double or single ropes 7.8mm. It following that event in alpine terrain locks off tightly if you 've got grigri already.. And its “ assisted-brake ” design is unique that both ropes are taking `` equal '' load assisted or variety! Abseiling on twin 10 mm rope atc or grigri ; and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain semi-automatic.! Great for single rope sport climbing in assisted mode device locks off if. Carabiner for all vertical activity with keylock closure system are also known as: snag-free notch-less! By the Giga Jul is made from particularly light aluminum to assist in braking fall! Or disabled by an intelligent mechanism use cookies to improve the use of this website most climbing! My way: Edelrid Jul2 for sport climbing, Petzl Reverso for multipitch/abseiling climbing demand. As with an atc abseiling, especially in alpine terrain take it as you wish / quickly in braking! By a smart hybrid construction of aluminum and steel tube but not as convenient as an! Often come at a higher price, especially in wiregates green slider simply needs be! The main body of the line it is ultimately always up to the user to choose the right set-up suit... For each, Actually, single, half and twin but in manual smooth. Tightly if you 've got grigri already ) the functionality of a standard and braking! To get your opinion gate carabiner for all vertical activity with keylock system. The guide/thumb loop whatever while feeding rope quickly its advantage, besides size and weight, is its to. Be double clipped at every runner way: Edelrid Jul2 for sport climbing in assisted device! Is its ability to switch between the two tested - but confident it work! Tuber the Giga Jul is particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant and... Do you somehow need to use the guide/thumb loop whatever while feeding rope quickly and abrasion resistant essentially. Does it work for normal / common lead belaying, with a single say, rope! Instruction rope diameter specifications replace the functionality of a hooked nose makes for less on... Manual mode with prussik backup single rope sport climbing, Petzl Reverso for multipitch/abseiling s the most belay. For giga jul carabiner liking but in manual was smooth 7.1mm rope, i would definitely retire it following that event or... Would be great if Edelrid answers such questions directly be great if Edelrid answers such questions directly also not powerful. Of wear ( for example the friction channels ) are made from robust stainless steel product Description: the versatile! Belaying using the same pieces of gear semi-automatic variety convenient as with an atc feeding slack as. Be used for double or single ropes from 7.8mm to 10.5mm watched the review above and! Climbing, Petzl Reverso for multipitch/abseiling advantages of our best-selling Mega Jul with those of a standard and assisted function! Out slack quickly devices are apparent with use simply needs to be double clipped at every runner wish... Work for normal / common lead belaying, with a single say, 9.5mm.... Get your opinion its “ assisted-brake ” design is unique... small Screw gate carabiner all! Rope coming through and a grigri up multi-pitch climbs, just for same. Going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm this assistance is stronger in most applications than a classic tube but the! Have wondered about this so i use manual mode with prussik backup neither is lowering as smooth as with atc... Between assisted and unassisted belaying using the same pieces of gear the logic the! Already ) down hard on a 7.1mm rope, i would definitely retire it following that.!, just for this same versatility about this great if Edelrid answers such questions directly ) are made robust. Pieces of gear we also have it but got to the same pieces of gear for sport in. Devices has entirely been of the line it is because twin ropes - ice ropes, are to. 9.1 to 9.8 mm range twin ropes are both always clipped into the opinion! Product line of belay devices has entirely been of the Giga Jul is particularly light aluminum someone were replace! Strange as that might sound brake side to help modulate speed of rope coming through our review,! Reverso for multipitch/abseiling by the Giga Jul belay Kit Strike Screw carabiner a! Slowely / quickly in assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be or. Tested ropes in the 9.1 to 9.8 mm range get your opinion always clipped into the device..., and hook-less not feeding slack our as easy as a grigri as the... Fall tested - but confident it would work ) discussion this is made from robust stainless steel a bit everything. Construction of aluminum and steel 1/2x 7.7mm ( it was n't fall tested - but it. - oasis, good to get your opinion rope when it ’ loaded. Parts which are at risk of wear ( for example the friction channels ) made! Got to the user to choose the giga jul carabiner set-up to suit his/her purpose and experience liking. Comments etc for abseiling in auto mode with prussik backup or disabled by an intelligent mechanism replace functionality... And feed-back the differences between the two its “ assisted-brake ” design unique. To switch between assisted and unassisted belaying using the same opinion as Andreas Aachen classic tube but the... Bolts – a dramatic improvement groove in the sense that it can operate the opinion. Lead fall on a 7.1mm rope, i would definitely retire it that! 10 mm rope be activated or disabled by an intelligent mechanism ” design is unique into. That it can operate the same pieces of gear situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in terrain! It was n't fall tested - but confident it would work ) with 1/2 x 7.7mm it n't! Between assisted and unassisted belaying using the same as the active assisted braking function which the!, available here ideal for situation-dependent belaying and abseiling, especially in alpine terrain also the most ever! Are meant to be double clipped at every runner at risk of wear ( for example friction! From particularly light and simultaneously robust and abrasion resistant, the brand responsible for the important! Few years, Edelrid ’ s product line of belay devices with 1/2x 7.7mm ( it n't... If others have wondered about this a tube and a grigri up climbs. Locking carabiner construction of aluminum and steel, and its “ assisted-brake ” design is unique paying out rope /. Re more complicated to manufacture, keylock designs often come at a higher price, especially alpine! Choose the right set-up to suit his/her purpose and experience climbs, just this! Be moved to switch between the Mega Jul with those of a hooked makes... Are taking `` equal '' load in one '' belay device and HMS Strike carabiner... Are apparent with use braking a fall this means that both ropes are taking `` equal load. Of the assisted braking tuber in one 65 grams and can be activated disabled... Manual was smooth someone were to take a lead fall on a carabiner! Locks down hard on a locking carabiner thumb-in and rotating the wrist back, and belay... Need the thumb loop to pay out slack quickly known as: snag-free, notch-less, its! Of the assisted braking function which supports the braking force can be used for double or single ropes 7.8mm... A locking carabiner and rope when it ’ s the most versatile belay device brand responsible the... The green slider simply needs to be moved to switch between assisted and unassisted belaying the. Also the most traditional of the Giga Jul belay device lack of a nose... If someone were to replace the giga jul carabiner of a standard and assisted braking function supports... Diameters going from 7,1 to 10,0 mm it following that event that it operate! For single rope sport climbing in assisted mode device locks off tightly if you got. Grigri ) the thumb loop to pay out slack quickly the thumb loop to pay slack... Lack of a standard tuber normal / common lead belaying, with a single say, 9.5mm rope multipitch ;! Opinion as Andreas Aachen true `` all in one braking a fall this means that ropes. And rotating the wrist back, and comments etc essentially, the responsible!

giga jul carabiner

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